HISTORY OF THE ISLAND
The
island was first mentioned by Homer, and Achilles hid here until he was called
up to fight in the Siege of Troy. In subsequent centuries, it was occupied first
by the Athenians, and later by the Romans, Venetians, Turks and Russians, as
well as spending a century as part of the Byzantine Empire.
Skyros appears on every page of the Greek History. It was an
important center in the copper age (2500-1800 bc) verified by the archeological
excavations at Palamari. It is the island that bride Thetida chose to dissuade
her son Achilleas from going to the battle of Tria to fight for the honor of
beautiful Helen. According to the myth Achilleas was dressed in woman clothes
and lived in the palace with the daughters of king Likomidis.
But the diviner disclosed this information to Odysseas who
shipped to Skyros in the hold of a ship owned by a weapons and gold dealer. So
when the women where choosing gold jewelry Achilleas surrended having chosen one
of the swords provided by the arms dealer. Until today the bay from witch
Achilleas sailed off to Tria is known as Achili.
At
470bc Skyros was conquered by the Athenian general named Kimon, who established
an Athenian colony on the island bringing Athenian settlers with many ships. In
doing so he managed to eliminate any pirates looting the area. Historical
archives reveal that the local colored marbles in the Roman Age where moved by
ship to Rome to decorate many public and private buildings.
The beautiful Byzantine churches , the famous wood-engraved
designs and the charismatic melodies of the local songs have a Byzantine
heritage but also stand out for their strict local island influence.
The ancient monastery of Saint George is situated on the top
of the castle. It was established by Nikiforos Fokas and Ioannis Tsimiskis at
906 ac. It possesses many rare holy icons and the view is captivating and
extraordinary.
Lets find out about the capital city of the island, Skyros,
which is build amphitheatrically on the slopes of a short hill. Let ourselves
wonder through the small streets and admire the many houses that look like small
cubes. One can be captivated from their internal decoration, their wooden roofs,
by the wooden engraved furniture , their pottery and their beautiful woven
clothing. Lets be enchanted by the moonlight reflecting on the white walls. Lets
hear the soft but never sad song of life , love and youth... Lets purify our
souls in a secret secluded beach.
The northern part of the island is full of pine trees in
contrast to the southern part which is poor in vegetation. On the mountain of
Traxilos live the world famous short horses of Skyros roaming free in the winter
and in the summer the same horses return to their owners for water and care near
the Capital city.
The number of churches on the island is approximately 180. The most distinguished one is the church of Virgin Mary. The archaeological and folklore museums are places that one cannot permit to miss. Wonderful sandy beaches full of pine trees one can find at the bay of Atsitsas, Peukou and saint Foka. The beach of Kalamitsa is one of the islands bests.
Eri and I in Skyros (summer 1998)
RUPERT
BROOKE
The
most visible memorial to this is in Skyros Town itself. High up above the sea,
in Brooke Square, stands the "statue of an ideal poet", pictured here.
This was funded by a Belgian businessman in 1931 and was intended to be an
allegorical figure rather than a true likeness to Brooke. The original model is
believed to have been a Belgian male prostitute.
Rupert
Brooke was born on 3rd August 1887, the second son of the House Master of School
Field, Rugby, and his wife Ruth Cotterill. It was here that he grew up,
attending both the preparatory and main schools. His parents moved in
established intellectual circles: during summer holidays, the Brooke children
played with the Stephen children (including Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell) on
the beach at St Ives. In Rugby he began writing poetry and developing the
romantic verse style known later as Georgian.
In
1906, Rupert went up to King's College, Cambridge as a scholar. In his first
year, he lived in the room now known as A14, overlooking the front court and the
Chapel. At King's he studied classics and acted, took up socialism, and did
badly in his first year exams: his interest was more in literature and the
theatre. By early 1908, his wit and good looks ensured his election to the
Apostles, an elite society of intellectuals and aesthetes.
At
the start of his third year, he moved a few miles out of Cambridge to
Grantchester. In Grantchester, his days were lived with friends out in the open
air: going barefoot, sleeping out, walking, camping. Virginia Woolf described
Rupert and his circle as "neo-pagans". His interest in socialism had
also developed. In Spring 1909 he became a full member of the Fabian Society,
and he spent part of the Summer of 1910 in Hampshire and Dorset campaigning for
the reform of the Poor Law. On a camping holiday later that year, he became
secretly engaged to a girl six years his junior, Noel Olivier, who was still at
school at Bedales.
Rupert
spent Spring 1911 in Munich, learning German. At Carnival, the Flemish
sculptress Elizabeth Van Rysselberg met him and fell in love with him. When he
returned to Grantchester in May 1911, he began to work feverishly for his
Fellowship at King's. At the same time, despite the demands of his academic
career, he completed his first volume of poetry, Poems 1911. This was
published by Sidgwick and Jackson in early December, and produced a small profit
within a few weeks. In the next twenty years it ran to 37 editions, totalling
around 100,000 copies.
There
then came a crisis which marked a turning point in his life. Over the course of
1911, despite his engagement to Noel, Rupert had fallen steadily in love with Ka
Cox, a fellow Fabian committee member. Just after Christmas 1911, he traveled
down to Lulworth in Dorset to join her and a group of friends for a reading
party. This included Lytton and James Strachey, the economist Maynard Keynes,
and the painter Henry Lamb. Lamb, although married, also had a strong interest
in Ka. Rupert suspected Lytton Strachey of setting up the invitation to Lamb,
and of arranging for Lamb and Ka to have time on their own together. The
situation came to a head when Ka told Rupert she was in love with Lamb.
Months
of overwork, wounded pride, and a fear that his friends did not take him
seriously as a heterosexual probably all played a part in the scene which
followed. There were also underlying contradictions in Rupert's personality: his
free spirit conflicted directly with the puritanism he had inherited from his
mother. When he returned to London in early January 1912, a Harley Street
specialist recommended complete rest, a special diet, and sunshine. Rupert
therefore joined his mother in Cannes. But by the end of January he was back
with Ka, living with her in Munich through February. Later in 1912, she gave
birth to a stillborn child. For the remainder of the spring Rupert was
unsettled, spending time back in Munich, in Rugby and in Berlin. Rupert never
spoke to Lytton Strachey again, and indeed distanced himself from everyone
associated with the Bloomsbury Group after that time.
So on
15th September 1914, he applied for a commission in The Royal Naval Division.
With Marsh's influence, he was accepted a day or so later with no further
formalities. On Saturday 10th April 1915, Brooke's troopship left Port Said for
Lemnos. By now, there were so many ships anchored off the island that Brooke and
his company were sent on to Tris Boukes Bay off the south west of Skyros. They
arrived there on Saturday 17th April, where he received a letter enclosing a
cutting from The Times describing how his sonnet The Soldier had
been read by the Dean of St Paul's Cathedral as part of his sermon on Easter
Sunday a fortnight previously.
That
evening he began to fall seriously ill: a swelling on his upper lip - unnoticed
earlier, and probably a mosquito bite from Port Said - became inflamed. Over the
next hours the inflammation spread. A bacteriologist on board identified it as a
diplococcal infection - in other words, blood poisoning. Brooke was moved to a
neighbouring French hospital ship on Thursday 22nd April. As this was awaiting
the injured from Gallipoli, he was the only patient on board, under the care of
twelve doctors and surgeons.
The statute of Rupert Brooke in Skyros
Leaving
the coast one meets the internal city called hora which is the
center of the economic life of the island. It is there where one can find many
hotels and rooms to let. Skyros
island is less influenced by the tourist development than its neighboring
islands (Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos). Its many beautiful beaches surround
the island, each one inviting you to swim within its own waters. At Skyros,
tradition and modern life , myth and reality coexist in total harmony
formulating an ideal place for summer vacations. Beyond general pleasures as
climate, sea, nature, food, people and other interesting things as
museums, architecture etc..., it's the special atmosphere that makes me fall in
love for this Island and want to go every summer.
A panoramic view of Skyros island (summer 1997)